There’s good food here, and that’s no malarky

July 7, 2009

By Jim Feehan

Webster’s Dictionary defines malarky as insincere or foolish talk. Well it’s no bunkum that Malarky’s Sports Grill on Gilman Boulevard is an outstanding sports bar serving great burgers and sandwiches, and even breakfast on weekends.The restaurant is a little bit off the beaten path, or should I say difficult to find despite the Gilman Boulevard address. Look for it next door to Gold’s Gym.

The décor has the usual large TVs (eight in all), pool tables and neon beer signs and sports memorabilia you’d find at most sports bars. Photos of the Malarky’s softball team appear at the top of the iPodlike jukebox, while patrons can select from every imaginable musical genre and key in individual artists and their entire musical library.

But enough about the ambiance, bring on the burgers, salads and baby back ribs.

Malarky’s offers a dozen burger entrées from the flame-broiled Jack Daniels burger ($8.79), topped with smoked bacon cheddar cheese, grilled onions, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and smothered in Jack Daniels sauce, to the Malarky burger ($9.79) with two patties, topped with cheddar and Swiss cheeses, bacon, tomato and onion.

Other entrées include cordon bleu chicken ($8.99) served with grilled chicken breast, topped with smoked ham, Swiss cheese and honey mustard, and the usual lineup of Reuben ($8.79) Philly cheese steak ($9.79), B.L.T. ($7.79) and french dip ($8.79) sandwiches. All include your choice of soup, salad, potato salad, french fries, potato chips or coleslaw.

Malarky’s has a full complement of salads, including the house salad with three-bean salad, sliced mushrooms, turkey, shredded cheese, tomato, croutons and garlic bread ($8.99), as well as a taco ($7.99), Caesar ($7.99) and chicken cobb ($8.99) salads.

Got a case of the munchies? Malarky’s has 18 appetizers from homemade onion rings ($6.79), to mozzarella sticks ($7.99) and Cajun shrimp and cheese ($7.99).

Specials include a prime rib dip ($10.99), chicken fried steak ($8.99) and fish and chips ($12.79).

Just for the halibut, I opted for the fish and chips. The fish was generously sized, lightly seasoned and cooked to perfection. The french fries were a touch too crispy. The club wrap ($8.79) was loaded with just enough mayonnaise and the prime rib dip ($10.99) was stacked high with beef and came with an ample supply of au jus for dipping, according to coworkers who sampled Malarky’s menu.

Daily specials include a chef’s choice on Mondays, two tacos for $2.75 on Tuesdays, $6.99 wings on Wednesdays, baby back ribs ($11.99 for half/$19.99 for a whole) on Thursdays, grilled sirloin steak with salad and baked beans ($11.99) on Saturday and prime rib ($12.99) on Sunday. All specials are available after 4 p.m. You can also saddle up next to the microphone for Karaoke on Wednesday and Saturday nights.

The service was prompt and courteous. My food server constantly topped off my glass and checked periodically to ask if I needed anything.

Malarky’s offers breakfast on weekends. The menu includes french toast ($5.99), eggs Benedict ($9.99) chicken-fried steak with eggs and hash browns ($7.99), and steak and eggs ($11.99).

Malarky’s gets my vote for an All-Star restaurant.

Malarky’s Sports Grill

– 1025 N.W. Gilman Blvd.

– 392-6356

– 11 a.m. – 2 a.m. Monday-Sunday

– Breakfast served from 9 a.m. – 1 p.m. Saturday and Sunday.

– Appetizers range from $2.99 to $8.99. Entrées are $6.99 to $15.99. Breakfasts are $5.99 to $11.99.

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